【Kagawa】Enjoy Kiyama Onsen! Hot Springs, Great Views, and "Popular Theater"

Kiyama Onsen, Kagawa Prefecture: Locally loved for more than 60 years

Repeat guests are greeted at the reception counter

Kiyama Onsen is located at the base of the nature-rich Kiyama Mountains in Sakaide city, Kagawa Prefecture, with a history of more than 60 years. You can see many repeat guests and hot spring staff chatting at the reception counter and in the restaurant. I could tell that for many years, the hot spring has been loved by the local residents.

Kiyama Onsen Folk Stories

Not only from the atmosphere can you feel the long history of Kiyama Onsen, but also from the folk stories which have been handed down from generation to generation. For example, some stories originated a long time ago when the Kiyama Mountains were known as the "Devil Mountains". In the building are three exhibits about the fairy tales. When you visit please enjoy!

Overlooking the Seto Inland Sea and the Seto Ohashi Bridge! Refresh yourself with the wide views while soaking in the hot springs

The red curtain indicates female bath, and the blue curtain is for the male bath

One of the special features of Kiyama Onsen are two hot springs baths with wide views of the Seto Inland Sea and the Seto Ohashi Bridge. The two baths "Koishiyu" and "Itoshiyu" alternate daily between male and female use.

Koishiyu bath’s gorgeous view (photo credit: Kiyama Onsen)

You can enjoy several luxurious views from the Koishiyu bath; on the right side, there are the peaks of Goshikidai Mountains, in the distance directly ahead, there is the Seto Inland Sea, and on the left side you can see the Seto Ohashi Bridge. 
Since Kiyama Onsen is located on a high location, it is not only the Koishiyu bath that has a great view. The Itoshiyu bath also offers a great panoramic vista. Even though the day I visited was rainy and foggy, that weather created a mystical, wonderful landscape. The unadulterated natural alkaline hot springs carry healing properties, and accompany the beautiful views outside for a wonderful bathing experience.

In the baths, the friendly greetings of "good afternoon" and "welcome" between bathers made me feel at peace and relaxed.

Entertainment continuing from the Edo Period: What is Popular Theater?

After enjoying the hot springs, the next experience to enjoy is Kiyama Onsen's famous Popular Theater. The Popular Theater that you can see here has continued for many years and is enjoyable to all kinds of people. During the Edo Period officially permitted plays performed in theaters in Edo (modern Tokyo) were known as "ooshibai" (large plays). Performances at temples and shrines were called "koshibai" (small plays). Plays that travelled the country, excluding Edo, Kyoto, and Osaka, were known as “Tabishibai” (travelling plays). Modern kabuki takes it roots from "ooshibai".

Even first timers can enjoy Popular Theater

Stretch your legs and relax at the theater
The name Popular Theater is the modern title for the nationwide traveling shows.The price is more reasonable than kabuki and you can readily see performances locally at hot springs, hotels, and health spas.

Gift tapestries from fans with names of various performers

Performers are too busy touring to appear on television and other mass media but their talent is superb. Nationwide there are about 100-200 troupes.

Dance show`s eye-catching costumes are also fun

Performances combine human dramas and comedies, with traditional enka songs and modern popular music.

What is the appeal of Popular Theater? My report on a performance.

The Kiyama Onsen Popular Theater has three parts: a mini-show, then a drama, and finally the Grand Show of dances and songs. Each part is enjoyable and will greatly entertain you!! The total show time is about three and a half hours but there will be intermissions between the parts. The first part is in the morning with the second and third parts following after a lunch break. 
You can dip in the hot spring baths in the morning before the shows, or relax in the hot springs after the performance is finished. You can choose your way of enjoying the hot springs and show!

The flower lei indicates that this seat is taken

If you purchase the show and bath combination ticket at the reception counter, you will receive a flower lei. Your flower lei is your pass to enter the theater. Don’t forget to return the lei when you depart!

Everything can be seen from second floor seats

At the theater entrance current show billboards are displayed

At Kiyama Onsen the performing troupe changes every month. You can check on the homepage to view the performance schedule. Today`s troupe was "Kyouya".

Part 1: Introduction of performers and a mini-show（11:30～12:00）

The performance starts with the 30 minute mini-show. Accompanied by music and energetic announcements to excite the audience, the actors take the stage to show off their dances.

Troupe assistant director: Ryuta Shirafuji

The troupe assistant director with a dignified gaze, Ryuta Shirafuji

Star actor Kiyoto Shirafuji

Among young actors, the most popular is Kiyoto Shirafuji. Despite his popularity, he never came off as arrogant. I felt his friendly nature from the way he cheerfully thanked the audience at the end of his dance.

Souma Shirafuji

This is the young performer, Souma Shirafuji. I was so surprised how quickly he changed his costume after his first appearance on stage. I asked the troupe director about the quick costume change, and he replied that most performers can change within thirty seconds to one minute.

Kyouya troupe director Kazuma Shirafuji

The last to appear on stage was the third generation director of the Kyouya Troupe, Kazuma Shirafuji. His stage debut was at age 5, and at 21 years old he became the director of the troupe.

While enjoying the dancing in the mini-show, you can also get an idea of the troupe’s members. Finding your favorite performer is one part of enjoying the experience.

Having lunch at the restaurant during the meal break

The restaurant filled with many customers

Between the first and second parts there is about a one hour lunch break. Many of the audience members have their meal at the restaurant inside the building.

Miso pork cutlet set menu (1,250 yen)

The most popular dish in the restaurant is the "Miso pork cutlet set menu" using domestic Japanese pork. The crunchy breading, juicy meat, and sweet and salty miso sauce are perfect! Also recommended is the sukiyaki set menu featuring tender Japanese wagyu beef. Every month, the special set menu changes and an a la carte menu is also available. 

Part 2: Drama (13:15～14:25)

The theme of the drama changes daily, so even if you attend every day you can enjoy a different performance. The dramas are usually set in the Edo Era but the plot is easily understandable and beginners can enjoy the performance too. Today`s show was a comedy drama called "Chef Brothers".

A scene from Chef Brothers

To briefly summarize, in the story, a preppy young lady is being harassed by bullies and is helped by the younger of the Chef Brothers. However, the lady's personal assistant mistakenly thought that it was the older brother who saved her. As a result, wedding negotiations were started between the older brother and the lady. The older brother knew the truth, and by pulling an act together, attempted to help his hesitant younger brother. In the end the younger brother and the lady got together happily.

Actor Kiyoto receives a chocolate gift from an audience member

One of the bullies that appeared on stage in the beginning, was the star actor Kiyoto dressed up in unflaterring make-up! This was my first time to enjoy Popular Theater, and it was a big surprise to me since I thought all of the performers’ makeup and costumes would be beautiful.

Kazuma acting the role of the unreliable older brother

Performing the older brother role was the troupe leader Kazuma, also wearing drab makeup. Contrasted to his grace in the mini show, the big change in his movements and makeup surprised me. Kazuma diverges from the script, saying “why am I wearing such makeup in front of this big turnout?” to which another actor responds “You’re the one that decided the roles!” Quick-witted improvisations kept the audience excited.

Always handsome Ryuta playing the younger brother

From start to finish the audience kept laughing. It was such a fun comedy drama. It was entertaining to see how the actors adjusted the flow according to their judgement and ad libs. At one point, an actor said “We’re almost out of time! Let’s wrap it up!” and another responded “We’re in a good flow today, let’s keep it going!”

On a separate day I saw this same troupe perform a different human drama. There was a scene which moved the audience to tears, and I heard some in the audience were sobbing. I was amazed at how skillfully the actors could perform.

Final Remarks of Gratitude

Popular merchandise sometimes sell out

During the remarks the troupe director thanks the audience for attending, and merchandise is offered for sale. The individual performers also sell flower leis, and buying them functions as a tip for the particular actor.

Part 3: “Grand Show” dances and songs（14:40～15:40）

Ryuta dressed as a woman

After a break is the Grand Show, the final part. At the beginning a male performer dressed as a woman performs his role as a female dancer. Even if I know the actor is a man, his motions from head to toe were beautiful and alluring even to me as a woman. 

A Child performed too

The troupe director`s son Daiki Shirafuji, age 6, also performed. The audience broke into smiles as his small body ran around the large stage.

The number of leis proves who is most popular

During the show, members of the audience can give leis or tips called "flowers" to their favorite performers. To the actor, the colorful leis and "flowers" are decorative praises for his performance. 

On days with large turnouts, everybody does three rounds of clapping

Since the turnout was very good on this day, at the end everyone did three rounds of clapping together. After that the actors tossed some small gifts, containing candy or other items, into the audience.  This seems to be a regular tradition of the show’s finale.

After the curtains fell, the actors came to thank the audience as we left the theater. They said goodbye while shaking hands and photos with the guests when requested. It was a bright heartfelt atmosphere until the end!

Interview with troupe director about the fun of Popular Theater

Compared to kabuki, for young people and overseas visitors, Popular Theater is not as well known. I asked the third generation director of Kyouya Troupe how first time Japanese observers and overseas visitors can enjoy Popular Theater.

Interview with the third generation troupe director: Kazuma Shirafuji

"First I want the audience to see the dance show. Of course watching the drama is good too but for overseas visitors the language gap can be big. The dance show of Popular Theater is like a musical version of kabuki. Even though we might wear traditional hair styles, we sometimes dance in western style clothing and use not only traditional enka music but also modern songs. Even someone who has never seen the theater can enjoy. Even without understanding the words, I think overseas visitors will enjoy the dances, costumes, and music.”

Eclectic blend of Japanese and western styled costumes

"At Popular Theater I can hear the audience every day saying how fun it was. When an audience member tells me that they had a bad day, but our show has motivated them to try again tomorrow, I truly feel the value of my job.”

The closeness between the audience and the performers is another enjoyable aspect of Popular Theater.

Things to note when viewing Popular Theater  

Inside the Kiyama Onsen theater, food and drinks are forbidden. In the theater it is ok to take pictures with a smartphone but please no talking.

Enjoy Popular Theater and natural hot springs

It was my first time seeing Popular Theater, but as the troupe director said in the interview, after attending the show, I felt re-energized and ready for tomorrow! Kiyama Onsen is a great place to enjoy Popular Theater, as well as refresh your body in the natural hot springs. Accommodations are also available. Why don't you enjoy a relaxing visit for several days?