At the northern tip of Ishikawa prefecture, the Wajima area is wrapped in nature and fresh air. The town is known for its scenic streets lined with Nagaya rowhouses and the traditional Wajima-nuri craft.
I am here to tell you more about Wajima-nuri, one of Japan’s most distinguished lacquerware styles. During my visit to the Wajima Kobonagaya, where Wajima-nuri can be experienced as well as purchased, I designed my own chopsticks and asked the professionals what they think is the appeal of Wajima-nuri.
Wajima-Nuri the Luxury Lacquerware
Look at that shine!
Wajima-nuri refers to the lacquerware produced in the city of Wajima. Besides its beauty and light weight, its strength is its appeal. Purchase one, and with a little care you will have a masterpiece that will last for a lifetime.
Another reason lacquerware is popular is the beauty of its designs made painstakingly by urushi lacquer. There are two techniques that give Wajima-nuri its beautiful clear designs: Maki-e, in which gold dust is sprinkled on the surface, and chinkin, in which designs are chiseled with a Nomi and then filled with gold powder. The difference is visible, as the maki-e designs are raised and the chinkin designs are grooved.
Now on to the Wajima Nagayakobo!
The Express Bus will get you there
Take the bus to Wajima Kobonagaya!
From Kanazawa Station I rode the express bus for two hours and got off at the Michi-no station Wajima “Flat Home” stop. This roadside rest area was built on the site of the old Wajima Station, and I recommend it if you want to get souvenirs and see the town. It is a ten minute walk from there to the Wajima Kobonagaya.
It is a five minute walk if you walk from the last bus stop, “Wajima Marinctown”. I recommend it if you want to have a nice view of the sea.
See, Touch, and Learn at this Enchanting Rowhouse
Wajima Kobonagaya with its old-fashioned front
Wajima Kobonagaya was built in 2003 and is based on a previously existing nagaya. Although it has only been 15 years since its construction, the charming exterior gives it a nostalgic feel.
There is a sign for Wajima Kobonagaya outside
The Wajima Kobonagaya is comprised of eight workshops relating to Wajima-nuri, which are lined up in the five buildings that make up the rowhouse. Workshops include the woodworking and urushi workshops where you can see the artisans at work, a workshop where you can try making your own Wajima-nuri, and a repair workshop. Wajima-nuri lacquerware is also available for purchase here.
Many visitors are seeing Wajima-Nuri for their first time when they come to the woodworking and urushi workshop, and they are able to enjoy conversations with the craftsmen while learning about Wajima-nuri, which is considered as one of the best parts of this place.
There are many other spots to check out in the area
Nearby are the Wajima Kiriko Art Museum, Yurari footbath, and the famous Wajima Morning Market. Wajima also has great soba and seafood restaurants, making it a fully enjoyable place to visit.
Making My Own Wajima-Nuri Chopsticks
Chopsticks can be designed at the workshop
At the experience workshop, you can create your own wajima-nuri designs! The menu features two types of experiences: chopsticks and lacquer panels. Chopstick designs can be either Maki-e or chinkin, while panels are for chinkin only.
Since they can be taken home on the same day, chinkin type chopsticks are the most popular. I also gave the chinkin chopsticks a try.
The pen-shaped chisel is easy to use even for beginners
First, I practiced using a Nomi chisel to carve into a Wajima-nuri panel. Here we can think about the design we want to create and how deep or shallow to make the carvings. The Nomi is placed at the end of a ballpoint pen, so carving with it is similar to drawing with a pen.
Practicing the chinkin technique with a yellow pencil
Then I used a yellow pencil to fill in where we carved to get an idea of what the finished design will look like with the gold filling. Once I finished practicing, it was time to carve my chopsticks.
See up close what real urushi lacquer looks like
Urushi can cause a rash with direct skin contact, so a workshop staff member handles the lacquering after the designs are finished.
Urushi acts as a glue as well as a coating. It is applied here with a cotton swab over the carvings, and then wiped off so the urushi remains only in the carved parts.
Wiping the extra gold dust off the chopstick
Then the workshop staff applied the gold dust to the carvings, and my design became visible with the golden color. Now my chopsticks are completed.
The finished chopsticks
Including the time for explanation and practicing, the experience lasts for 20 minutes to an hour. Making your own chopsticks is a great casual experience perfect for a one-day trip. The chopsticks can be taken home right away, but should be kept inside its packaging for three days so that it can dry properly. Your experience will depend on your design. There will be plenty of time to practice whether you want something simple or complex. By adding your own charateristics, these one-of-a-kind chopsticks will be yours to love each time you use them.
◆◆ Chopsticks Workshop（Chinkin/Maki-e）
Fee：1,500 yen (chopsticks included)
*Maki-e costs another 200 yen delivery charge.
Time：20 minutes to one hour
Strength and Beauty, The Wajima-nuri’s Appeal
Luxurious gold-toned Wajima-nuri
At the Wajima Kobonagaya, you can meet artists and craftsmen who have been involved in Wajima-Nuri production for many years. You can also watch them during their work. Here are my interviews with an urushi craftsman and an urushi artist.
A Veteran of 40 Years, Sharing the Craft with New Generations.
■Urushi Craftsman Mitsuru Nagai
First we talked to Mitsuru Nagai, a craftsman with a permanent station at the Wajima Kobonagaya. He is now 61 years old. He became a Wajima-Nuri craftsman right after graduating from high school, and has continued it for over 40 years.
Teaches using self-made teaching materials
In order to explain the appeal of Wajima-nuri to as many as possible, Mr. Nagai has made his own sketchbook teaching material. He gave us a lesson on Wajima-Nuri using those very materials.
――First, can you tell us what makes Wajima-Nuri different from other lacquerwares?
There are three differences. The first is division of labor, with specialized areas. The second is its strength, which comes from applying the urushi over cloth. The third is that the urushi is mixed with keisodo (diatomite) that has been baked and crushed into powder.
Page on mixing keisodo and urushi
――Can you tell us more about the Wajima-nuri’s strength?
By applying the powdered keisodo multiple times over the cloth, it has a similar effect to applying clay. I start with a coarser powder, and apply finer and finer powders for a total of five applications.
――So after the base woodwork is made in another workshop, you specialize in applying the cloth and urushi layers. One person doesn’t make it from start to finish?
Dividing the labor makes production easier, and focusing on one area improves the quality and speed. I believe that as the industry is growing, efficiency is necessary..
Tools worn with use
――I see. What led you to become involved with Wajima-Nuri?
The biggest factor was that my great-grandfather and grandfather did work related to urushi. I’ve never spoken directly with my great-grandfather, but I still repair and use the lacquerware that he made. I have some of his work here, so that visitors can see and hold them too.
A tea pot made by Mr. Nagai’s great grandfather（1920）
――So you are continuing their legacy. For the final question, can you tell us what you believe to be Wajima-nuri’s appeal?
Its beauty and strength. It is made only from natural materials so it can be repaired. Lacquerware may seem inaccessible, but if you keep in mind that your grandchildren and even great grandchildren can use it someday, it’s not so far out of reach.
Making lacquerware casual, the hopes of an Urushi Artist from England
■ Urushi Artist Suzanne Ross
My second interview was with Suzanne Ross, who now works at Wajima Kobonagaya after her first discovering of urushi in London. We asked about her journey to Japan and what she believes to be the appeal of Wajima-Nuri.
――Please tell us about how you first discovered Wajima-Nuri.
After seeing the beauty of urushi for the first time at an Edo Period exhibition in a London museum, I thought, “I want to learn this too.” At first, I thought that I could learn it in about three months, but it took me five years just to find a teacher.
――Five years!?
Yes. After five years I was finally able to enroll in a school for Wajima-Nuri urushi. At that time I planned to become an artist and bring the skills I learned in Japan back home to England. But it’s now my 29th year in Japan and I still haven’t quite acquired those skills.
――So you have been working with Wajima-nuri pieces for 29 years now?
Wajima-nuri is based on division of labor, but I do it all from start to finish, including sales. I want to master all the skills I need before going back to England.
――What is a merit of doing the whole process yourself?
Being able to mix things up is one. For example, I can use Parisian lace during the cloth application, or apply urushi to accessories instead of tableware. Being able to make original pieces by combining the traditions of Wajima-Nuri with contemporary needs is a merit.
Urushi accessories made by Suzanne
――What are some contemporary needs?
Eating habits is one example, unlike in the past, people now eat bread and pasta in addition to Japanese food. The tableware has also changed to include new materials like glass and plastic, and fewer people are choosing lacquerware. The price can also be a problem. It’s not so easy to buy lacquerware, which costs 30,000 yen.
I started making Wajima-Nuri accessories because I think it’s important to get people interested first. Accessories can be bought at more accessible prices, worn on the person, and become a topic of conversation. I wanted people to get a sense of familiarity by wearing it in person.
Giving thought to each step of the process
――Accessories do seem to be easier to start with.
As we age, we have more leeway with our money, and when we create a family, we may start to think about purchasing something made with urushi to pass down to future generations. Easy to buy and easy to inherit. By making urushi accessories, I’m opening up the pathway to lacquerware.
――I see. You bring lacquerware into people’s lives by making it more accessible and fitting contemporary needs.
What do you think is the appeal of Wajima-Nuri.
First is the beauty of it. And it’s sustainable, especially in this day and age. It lasts long and is made from natural materials so there’s no harm from it either.
Being in contact with beautiful things is a way of taking care of yourself. By taking the time to make and eat healthier foods from nice lacquerware, I think you can give yourself more love than when you eat cup noodles from a plastic container. Because we live in an information society, it’s important to have peace and calm in our lives. I think urushi provides a hint to that.
She will continue to make items that can be used on a daily basis.
Experience Wajima-nuri in its Homeland
The Wajima Kobonagaya is a place where the all-natural Wajima-nuri craft can be experienced in its nature-rich homeland on the Noto Peninsula.
“Urushi” is often seen as unapproachable, but by creating more accessible pieces and providing visitors the opportunity to learn about urushi, an effort is being made to bring it closer to our lives. By hearing the stories of the craftsmen and artists that are working to close the gap between our lives and urushi, we can better imagine a life with urushi in it.
Wajima Kobonagaya can be conveniently accessed from either Kanazawa Station or Noto Airport (Noto Satoyama Airport), so may your travels take you there.
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