Even compared to all of Japan’s volcanically rich regions, Gunma Prefecture is known as an exceptional “hot spring superpower” with a high number of hugely popular hot spring towns. Among them, Kusatsu Onsen stands among Japan’s most loved hot spring destinations, and Shima Onsen, the topic of this article, matches it in popularity.
Shima Onsen is located in the Joshin-etsu Kogen National Park in northwestern Gunma Prefecture, at an elevation of 700m. It has been widely known since old times as the “illness-curing hot spring of Shima”.
Let us take you through Shima Onsen’s retro townscapes and hot spring inns, as well as the natural beauty that lies only a short walk away!
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Lake Okushima: Shima Onsen Hot Springs' Spectacle of Cobalt-Blue Shima Onsen, Gunma Prefecture, is a hot spring town surrounded in beautiful natural landforms. This article explores the cobalt blue Lake Okushima, and other experiences in the area to help you connect with nature.
Sceneries
History of Shima Onsen Hot Springs
Shima Onsen's beginnings are explained differently by two theories.
The first tells that the hot springs became widely known after the feudal lord, Sakanoue-no-Tamuramaro, bathed in the hot springs of Shima Onsen. The second tells that upon visiting the area, Usui Sadamitsu, a vassal of the powerful Minamoto-no-Yorimitsu, woke up to the discovery of flowing hot spring water. The name "Shima" is written as "四万" - the Chinese numbers for 40,000 - and is taken from the hot spring's legend that bathing in it can fix all of 40,000 illnesses.
In 1563, the first inn was built in Shima Onsen. This was followed by many others until a hot spring town was formed, and in the Meiji Period an administrative union was formed for the town. With the construction of roads, Shima Onsen flourished with tourists seeking to nurture their wounds and illnesses in the legendary hot springs of Shima.
Shima Onsen, along with Sukayu Onsen and Nikko Yumoto Onsen, was designated as the first People’s Recreation Onsen by the Ministry of the Environment in 1954. This title is given to hot springs that meet all nine special criteria, such as health benefit and amount of water.
In 1954, the Ministry of Environment designated Shima Onsen as the first "hot spring for citizens' relaxation and recuperation." To be designated as one, a hot spring has to meet 9 requirements such as hot spring quantity and medicinal properties. At the same time as Shima Onsen, Sugayu Onsen of Aomori Prefecture, and Nikko Yumoto Onsen of Tochigi Prefecture were also designated as such.
About Shima Onsen’s Natural Hot Springs
Shima Onsen’s waters are from a sulfate-saline spring, and are said to help ease neuralgia and fatigue. Unlike the more acidic waters at Kusatsu Onsen, the waters at Shima Onsen are gentler on the skin.
Photo Courtesy: Gugutto Gunma Photo Museum
From long ago, the waters of Shima Onsen are said to be good for the skin when bathed in, and good for the stomach when drank. In the town, there are several spots where fresh, drinkable hot spring water is provided. Each drinking station has notes on etiquette and how much you are allowed to drink, so make sure to read them and follow the rules.
Visit these 3 Free Public Baths in Shima Onsen!
The public baths at Shima Onsen are a must-visit. Among them, the ones introduced underneath are the public baths "Gomuso-no-yu" "Kawara-no-yu", and "Kami-no-yu". These three are especially popular, as they can be enjoyed for free with no prior reservation.
1. Gomuso-no-yu Public Bath
Gomuso-no-yu
Out of the five districts, the Gomuso-no-yu is located in the Hinatami District. This was where Usui Sadamitsu is said to have discovered the hot spring.
Right in front of Gomuso-no-yu is Hinatami-yakushido Shrine. The shrine is designated as an national important cultural property.
■ Hours: 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. (all year-round)
■ Entrance: free
Kawara-no-yu Public Bath
Kawara-no-yu
Kawara-no-yu locates by the banks of Hagi-bashi Bridge. The exterior walls and the baths are made from stone, and almost make you feel like you’re bathing in a cave. Right above the facility is a park, where you can have some fresh air after your bath.
■ Hours: 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. (all year-round)
■ Entrance: free
Kami-no-yu
Photo Courtesy: Gugutto Gunma Photo Museum
Kami-no-yu locates in the Yamaguchi district. The exterior of the facility is made in a traditional Japanese architectural style. In both the men and women’s baths, the spring water directly pours into the baths.
■ Hours: 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. (all year-round)
■ Entrance: free
Sekizenkan, the Inn that Inspired "Spirited Away"?
Exterior of Sekizenkan Inn at Shima Onsen (Photo Courtesy: Gugutto Gunma Photo Museum
Sekizenkan is a ryokan (traditional-style accommodation facility) that is gaining a lot of attention in recent years. It was built in 1691, and is the oldest wooden onsen ryokan in Japan. It was even registered as a prefectural important cultural property.
Does the appearance of the ryokan seem familiar to you…?
An appearance reminiscent of “Spirited Away”
The ryokan has an uncanny resemblance to the baths from the movie, “Spirited Away”. The director, Miyazaki Hayao, visited Sekizenkan prior to making the movie, and the ryokan is rumored to be the model of the bathhouse in the movie.
However, the rumor has not been confirmed. There are many other theories on where the bathhouse in the movie is based on.
Unlike the typical ryokan, Sekizenkan is built in a “toji (湯治)” style. Toji bathhouses are for longer stays. At Sekizenkan, you can experience a toji-like stay, which is uncommon throughout the country.
Events at Shima Onsen Hot Springs
Here are some of the events held at Shima Onsen throughout the year.
Tori-oi Festival (January)
Tori-oi Festival, literally translating to “bird-chasing festival”, has a history of over 400 years. The festival originated as an event to chase birds away from ruining the locals’ crops and to celebrate a successful harvest and household safety. The taiko drums used in this festival are designated as a prefectural important cultural property.
Access
Nearest station: Shima Onsen (bus stop)
From Tokyo Station
【Tokyo Sta.】Kanetsu Kotsu Highway Bus / for Shima Onsen
→【Shima Onsen Bus Stop】
From Maebashi Station
【Maebashi Sta.】JR Ryomo Line / for Takasaki
→【Shin-Maebashi Sta.】JR Agatsuma Line / for Kazawaguchi
→【Nakanojo Sta.】Kanetsu Kotsu Bus / for Shima Onsen
→【Shima Onsen Bus Stop】
Enjoy Street Food too in the Town of Shima Onsen!
Shima Onsen has a wide variety of hot spring inns and hotels. With meals using fresh, seasonal ingredients, rooms with open-air bathtubs, and private hot springs, all of them are perfect for a slow, relaxing weekend out.
Shima Onsen's townscape is also loved for its warm and retro vibes. Take a stroll around with an "onsen manju" bun in hand, or challenge yourself with pinball at an old-fashioned arcade. Shima Onsen is also famous for cuisines using its local delicacy, Gunma Prefecture's highest quality Joshu beef.
There are many stellar viewpoints in the outskirts of the town too, so be sure to pay them a visit!
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