Zojoji Temple: The 600 year-old Temple Under Tokyo Tower

History of Zojoji Temple

Zojoji Temple shot from above

Zojo-ji was founded in 1393 as a temple for the Jodo Buddhist sect for the Kanto region. Its original location was in current-day Chiyoda Ward (currently home to Tokyo Station and Yasukuni Shrine), although now it sits in the Minato Ward, just beneath the Tokyo Tower. From its beginnings and through the Warring Period (around 1467 – 1568), Zojoji Temple served as the main temple for the Jodo sect in Eastern Japan.

Decades later, shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu started claiming and controlling land in the Kanto Region, and in 1590 he claimed Zojoji Temple as his family temple. Zojoji Temple relocated to its current site in 1598 and tremendously expanded its scale – on 826,000㎡ of land, there were 48 smaller temples and 150 grammar schools, with 3,000 priests living in the premises.

As the Tokugawa government crumbled towards the late 19th century, so did Zojoji Temple, with the new government confiscating the land. Later, large fires would engulf the buildings, such as the main hall, destroying them completely. In 1875, with the help of the main Jodo sect temple in Kyoto, reconstruction of Zojoji began and took place for the next several years.

Zojoji Temple Today

Unfortunately, the Second World War crushed the reconstruction efforts completely. With the Tokyo Air Strikes, most of the buildings in the temple grounds burned down, with the exception of a few. In 1952, a temporary main hall was built, and other reconstruction began as well.

The new permanent main hall was complete in 1972, and the temporary one is now used as an additional hall. The original Sangedatsumon and Kuromon still stand in the temple grounds today.

Sights to See in Zojoji Temple

Sangedatsumon Gate

Sangedatsumon Gate

The first noticeably large red gate you see as you enter Zojoji Temple is Sangedatsumon. Built in 1622, with financial aid from the Tokugawa shogunate, Sangedatsumon is one of the most famous buildings in Zojoji Temple. Sangedatsumon means “the gate (mon) where one can be delivered (gedatsu) from the three (san) earthly states: greed, anger and stupidity”. This is one of the only two buildings that survived the Tokyo Air Strikes during World War II.

The Bell of Shorodo

Shorodo

As you enter through the Sangedatsumon, you will see the Shorodo on your right. The Shorodo, originally built in 1633 (but reconstructed after WWII), houses a large bell. The bell used to be one of the biggest in Eastern Japan, and during the Edo period, it was used to signal time. The bell played an important role in the Edoites’ lives, and there were many haikus written about it as well.

Daiden - the Main Hall

The main hall of Zojoji Temple

Keep straight after passing the Sangedatsumon gate and seeing the bell of Shorodo, and you will see the Daiden - the Main Hall. As you take the stairs into the Main Hall, you will see a statue of the Amida Buddha enshrined inside. The Main Hall we see today was built in 1974, as the original was burned down in the Second World War.

Zojoji Temple Treasure Exhibit

In the second basement floor of the Daiden is the Zojoji Temple Treasure Exhibit. The exhibit, made in honor of the 400th anniversary of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s passing, showcases a miniature model display of the Tokugawa family Mausoleum. The exhibit also has historical artifacts on display. The entry fee is ¥500 and the exhibit is open between 10:00a.m. – 5:00p.m.

Ankokuden Hall

Ankokuden

Constructed in 1972, this building was once the temporary Main Hall, and is now called the Ankokuden. It is home to the Black Amida Buddha statue, which was worshipped deeply by Tokugawa Ieyasu. It is said that he protected this statue through catastrophes, and he credits his war victories to this Black Amida Buddha statue.

The Black Amida Buddha statue is available for public viewing 3 days of the year: on the 15th of January, May and September. Viewing is from 9:00a.m. to 3:00p.m., with a Buddhist sermon from 1:00PM and a prayer meeting from 2:00PM. Exclusive Black Amida Buddha amulets are sold from ¥5,000 to ¥20,000.

Mausoleum of Tokugawa Shoguns

Mausoleum of Tokugawa Shoguns

As mentioned above, Zojoji Temple was once the Tokugawa Family’s designated family temple. Zojoji Temple enshrines six Tokugawa shoguns – the second (Hidetada), sixth (Ietsugu), ninth (Ieshige), twelfth (Ieyoshi) and fourteenth (Iemochi). Although the original mausoleum itself was destroyed during the war, the remains of the shoguns were buried so deep into the ground that they were unharmed. Admission into the Mausoleum is ¥700, and opening times are from 10:00AM to 4:00PM.

If you are planning to visit both the Mausoleum and the treasure exhibit, you can buy a combination ticket for ¥1000.

Kuromon Gate

Kuromon

Adjacent to the Sangedatsumon Gate, is the Kuromon Gate, which is one of the few buildings that survived the Tokyo Air Raid in 1954. The Kuromon Gate was built by the third shogun, Iemitsu, some time between 1648 and 1652. Although not as extravagant as other buildings, you can feel the antiquity of this gate through its darkened wooden pillars and the Japanese-style tiled roof.

Koshoden Hall

The Koshoden Hall is the newest structure in Zojoji Temple, and was completed in the year 2000 to become a lecture hall and dojo for the cleansing of souls and fostering of vitality. The first thing you will notice upon entering, is the ceiling paintings on each floor. They exhibit the works of 120 Nihonga (traditional Japanese painting) artists, and was hoped to become a piece of artistic heritage to be preserved through the 21st century.

Kyozo

Across from the Shorodo Bell is the "Kyozo" hall. The Kyozo we see today was built in 1800 (originally made in 1613, but burnt down in a fire), and serves as a storehouse for national treasures. During his rule, Tokugawa Ieyasu brought over Chinese and Korean woodblocks to store in the Kyozo, and those rare items are still kept here.

Events at Zojoji Temple

Gyoki-daie (April)

The Gyoki-Daie, held in April, is a Jodo Memorial Service dedicated to the founder of the sect, Honen. In Buddhism, it is a common tradition to celebrate the passed one’s life for seven days after their passing, and this is the Jodo sect’s version of it. From April 2nd to 7th during 9:00a.m. to 4:00p.m., Zojoji celebrates the life of Honen by having tea ceremonies and religious services. The event is free of charge, and anyone (including tourists!) is free to participate.

Jizoson Bon-odori (July)

Temple festivals are a must for Japanese summers, and Zojoji is well aware. The Jizoson Bon-odori Festival is Zojoji Temple’s annual summer festival, and you can enjoy traditional Japanese festival dancing and the overall atmosphere. The festival is held on the final Friday and Saturday of July.

Takigi Noh (September)

Noh is a traditional Japanese drama using masks, and Takigi Noh is a version of Noh held outdoors. During the Edo period, Noh was commonly practiced at ceremonial events, but was almost entirely wiped out during the Meiji Restoration due to rapid modernization. With help from the noble class, Noh was saved from extinction. In honor of the restoration of Noh, a Takagi Noh Theater was established in 1881 in the current Tokyo Tower area.

Unfortunately, the theater was destroyed in World War II. To commemorate the theater and the art of Noh, there is an annual outdoor Noh performance held at Zojoji. Noh performances are held at night with only the light of bonfires, and exude a beautiful dark yet ethereal atmosphere. The event is held in the end of September.
Tickets range from ¥2000 to ¥8000, and ticket sales start on July 31st at the Zojoji Daiden Lobby on the first floor. Tickets are also available via telephone at 03-3432-1431 between 9:00a.m. and 5:00p.m. (only in Japanese).

New Years Eve / New Years (December/January)

Joya no Kane is a Japanese tradition for temples to ring their bell 108 times on the midnight of New Year’s eve, as a symbol of getting rid of the 108 earthly desires. You can go watch this tradition at Zojoji, while also seeing the Tokyo Tower have a special New Years’ Light-up. This mixture of traditional and modern Japan is sure to be an interesting sight.

At Zojoji, you can experience ringing the bell yourself by making a reservation and purchasing a ticket. Tickets are ¥2000 and available from December 1st at 9:00a.m., at the Temple Office on second floor of the Zojoji Kaikan. Tickets are limited and are on a first come first served basis.

On New Years Day, many Japanese practice hatsu-mode, which when they pay their first temple visit of the year. By going to a temple first thing in the New Year, people pray for the forthcoming year to be healthy and fortunate. You can go pray for your new year at Zojoji, and also draw an omikuji, or fortune slip, while you’re at it.

Access

Nearest stations:
・Shibakoen Station (Toei Mita Line I05)
・Daimon Station (Toei Asakusa A09/Oedo Line 20)

From Shinjuku Station

【Shinjuku Sta.】Toei Shinjuku Line / for Honhachiman Station
→【Jimbocho Sta.】Toei Mita Line / for Shirokanetakanawa
→【Shibakoen Sta.】from Exit A5 → about a 4-minute walk

From Tokyo Station

【Tokyo St.】Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line / for Ogikubo
→【Ginza Sta.】Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line / for Nakameguro
→【Hibiya Sta.】Toei Mita Line / for Hiyoshi
→【Shibakoen Sta.】from Exit A5 →　about a 4-minute walk

From Narita Airport

【Narita Airport】Narita Sky Access Express / for Haneda International Airport Domestic Terminal
→【Daimon Sta.】→ about a 5-minute walk

From Haneda Airport

【Haneda Airport】Keihin Airport Express / for Narita Airport
→【Daimon St.】→ about a 5-minute walk

Near Zojoji Temple